The next stage of the journey

Monday, 28 August, 2006 @ 12:35 PM

Tomorrow, we transit the mighty Panama Canal. This is a major milestone, and is now the last real obstacle before we head out into the Pacific. We will be taking 2 days for the transit, departing the PCYC tomorrow afternoon around 5PM, picking up an advisor, and entering Gatun Locks at approximately 7PM. We will spend the night moored on Gatun lake, and head off early Wednesday morning, across the lake and through the Galliard Cut to San Miguel Lock, then down the final drop to the Pacific Ocean at the Miraflores Locks. If anyone is interested, there are three live webcams at strategic locations along the canal, which can be viewed here. I'll be waving!!!

Happy birthday to me!!

Sunday, 27 August, 2006 @ 8:30 PM

Yep, another year bites the dust. Had a pleasant day, exploring the area around the Shelter Bay Marina here, which was at one time a US military base, and I've heard, submarine base. About the only signs of it remaining today are some interesting old bunkers and gun emplacements out in the jungle, and some concrete grandstands near the clubhouse, however there is a dilapidated looking Panamanian navy base nearby. Finished the day with a tasty curry on the back of Valdolese, and a few quiet beers. Not an exciting day, but a very relaxing one!!!

The San Blas islands

Tuesday, 22 August, 2006 @ 3:05 PM

The San Blas are a group of 365 low-lying islets running for about 200 miles along Panama's north-east coast, to the Columbian border. They are inhabited by the Kuna Indians, who lead a seemingly idyllic existence in their semi-autonomous homeland. The lush green islands dotted across the opal-blue waters makes for an achingly beautiful panorama. San Blas sets the bar for picturesque desert islands very high indeed, and I'll be interested to see how the touted South Pacific isles shape up. (click the pic to see some more photos of this beautiful place).

Thurs, 17 Aug

PCYC -> Portobello

Left mid-afternoon (3:30) 3 dolphins crossed our path at an angle. Narrowly avoided collision with yacht named Stella with skipper snoozing on foredeck. Portobello is an historic place, second rainiest town on earth (according to Gerry the German). Also where Sir Francis Drake was supposedly buried at sea (near Isla Drake, North of harbour entrance).

Fri, 18 Aug

Portobello -> West Lemon Cays

Plenty of flotsam, including tree trunks the length of the boat. Spectacular squalls passing by, as well as unusual cloud formations. San Blas looks beautiful! Friendly locals in a canoe show us a good mooring between 3 islands, then leave us with a business card, "Venencio - Master Mola Maker." Intriguing! Mola ladies came later to terrorise us.

Sat, 19 Aug

West Lemon Cays -> Coco Bandero Cays

Woke to buckets of crab & lobster. Just $7 for the lot I'm told!! Gorged ourselves on Rock Crab for breakfast until we could eat no more. Dove on boat to increase pitch on hi-tech Kiwi feathering prop. Master Mola Maker Venencio returned and drove a very hard bargain on some high-class molas. Walked around deserted Miria island, then departed through channel to South and headed for deserted Coco Bandero group. 2 hour trip, then moored south of strangely named Orduptarboat Island. Not another person for miles around. Stunningly scenic. Chinese Lobster for dinner.

Sun, 20 Aug

Coco Bandero -> Isla Grande

Landed on beautiful Orduptarboat. Pristine, Robinson Crusoe island. Went for a snorkel in the shallows. Nice coral, and an average amount of visibility and fish life. Would love to dive here! Headed out Holandes Channel for open sea. Again, had to take evasive action due to floating tree-trunks. 8 hours motoring brought us to Isla Grande. Came BLOODY CLOSE to driving up on a coral shelf, but saved due to loud shouting by yours truly and a quick hand on the reverse throttle by Ian. Headed ashore, and strangely ended up again at Pupy's. Fairly large night, ending with an escalation to strong cocktails, interesting conversation with an attractive girl from Panama City and topped off with a nice snapper dinner.

Mon, 21 August

Isla Grande -> PCYC

Woke with mild hangover. Breakfast with Senor Pupy, who regaled us in Spanish about the good old days under Noriega. Headed West, seen off by a pair of dolphins. Past privately owned Isla Cabra, just in time to see the owner arriving in his private helicopter. A long slog into wind and current finally brought us back to Cristobal (Colón). Huge queue of ships waiting their turn to transit the canal, including the unwelcome sight of a half dozen US warships. Possible terrorist threat to Canal? It would be a damaging target, for sure. Welcomed by the friendly PCYC crew like long lost family. Glad to be only passing through this time, however!!

A new hope

Tuesday, 22 August, 2006 @ 3:05 PM

It's hard to believe, but the new engine finally arrived. The waiting is not over, however. Installation takes around 2 weeks, due mainly to changes in the dimension of the block, gearbox and engine mounts by Yanmar. In the meantime, I haven't been completely idle. Two Canal transits as a line-handler on other boats have given me an idea of what to expect when we eventually get to do our own crossing. Also, a pleasant weekend spent up the coast at a spot called Isla Grande, working on my tan and wishing I knew how to surf. Finally, after six weeks of delay, we have a spick new engine installed and need to put some hours on it, sufficient to reach our first oil-change before crossing the Canal. A trip to San Blas could be the answer.

Stranded in Colón

Tuesday, 22 August, 2006 @ 3:05 PM

Bad news. When I arrive in Panama, I'm told the engine of Valdolese has died. The new engine is due in a week, but somehow takes more than a month to arrive. In the meantime, I settle into marina life at the Panama Canal Yacht Club (PCYC), in Colón, near the northern entrance to the Panama Canal. I'm happy to discover that Ian, Valdolese's skipper, seems like a good egg (for an Ocker), and the boat is beautiful – a 46' Beneteau, sleek, fast and comfortable. Also, there seem to be some interesting characters around the place, and the beer at the yacht club bar is cheap. Sadly, the rest of the situation is not so good. Colón is a run-down little joint, very obviously neglected in favour of shiny Panama City. The stretch of road immediately outside the yacht club is renowned for muggings. Colón's slums are as hopeless as any I saw in India, and there is a huge industrial waste incinerator next door which spews toxic black fumes over the marina whenever the wind is so inclined. The atmosphere in the bar soon loses its novelty, as does the grease-laden menu of the restaurant. I find myself not so much depressed as frustrated; after all, I came here to sail to Australia, not to pass time in a grotty, third-world backwater.

Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes

Tuesday, 22 August, 2006 @ 3:05 PM

Plenty has changed since my last postings here. I have made a decision to leave the Cayman Islands, my home for the past three-and-a-half years; the primary reason for this being the lack of focus in my life and in my career. Although Graphic Design is a worthy and challenging field, my natural strengths (and education) have always tended more to the left-brain/analytical/mathematical/problem-solving side of things, and to be honest, my career as a Graphic Designer to date has occurred more through happenstance than careful planning. I also feel a strong need to be able to get away from the desk/computer and spend more time outdoors. My aim is to return to university and study Engineering (Geotechnical Engineering, specifically), which would seem to dovetail perfectly with my newfound career goals. A second reason for leaving was due to Caymanian immigration policy. The law is so structured as to make it extremely difficult for an ex-pat to make Cayman their home. Despite being a productive, contributing member of society, I was always going to be considered an outsider, and my time there limited. A shame, because in many ways Cayman is a great place to live.

And so, I am headed for Australia. I have found a yacht that is sailing from the Caribbean to the Gold Coast, via the Panama Canal and the Pacific, who are willing to take me on as crew. New adventures. New horizons. The future is more hazy than before, but I think offers vastly more potential. My fate is in my hands.

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